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    DIY Repair Instructions
 

If in doubt as to what you may need to fix your board
you can send us an image and description of the
damage by clicking here

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Click here for an online repair estimate
 


Typical Superficial Damage to non-polypropylene boards such as;
Bic, Tiga, JP, Mistral, Fanatic, Naish, F2, Starboard, AHD, RRD, Seatrend
:

Note: Polypropylene board construction is not suitable for DIY repairs and requires
specialist hot air welding. Blue Chip is well equipped and has vast experience in plastic
hot air welding of boards, car bumpers, dinghies, canoes etc.
Windsurfing Insurance
 
Click here to check out our repairs gallery
Click hear for DIY Board Repair Materials

Stage 1 Materials required:
  • 80grade abrasive paper (rough)

  • 180grade abrasive paper (smooth

  • Scotch-Brite pad

  • 2-part clear resin kit

  • Cleaned out yogurt pot

  • 1cm brush

  • Cling-film

  • 25mm Masking tape

  • 2-part white Gelcoat

  • White primer filler paint

  • Colour matched touch up paint 

Stage 2 Preparation:
  • Flush out the damaged and surrounding area with fresh water and allow to dry completely. (sea water will not dry and will not allow the repair to key into the board)
  • Rub down the damaged area with 80grade paper
  • Blow out the debris

  • Cut sufficient glass matting to cover the damaged area and about 1cm overlap
Stage 3 The Resin repair:
  • Mix sufficient resin and hardener in the plastic container using the ratios given on the resin instructions.

  • Beware of Exothermic reaction, this can cause a melt down if you use too much resin in a confined space.

  • Brush on the mixed resin to the damaged area
    Apply the glass matting and stipple with the brush until completely wetted out with the resin.

  • Cover with cling-film and stick down the parameter with masking tape and leave overnight.
Stage 4 The Gelcote repair:
  • Sand down the excess resin and glass matting.

  • Mix up sufficient Gelcoat to bring the repaired area to the board surface. Note; if the repair is deeper than 2-3mm, build up with several layers of Gelcoat, each layer should be no more than 2-3mm thick, allow each layer to harden before applying a subsequent layer.

  • Once the final Gelcoat layer has hardened sand down with appropriate abrasive paper to give a smooth finish, which blends in to the surrounding board. The finishing process may take some time to give a perfect finish.
Stage 5 Finishing:
Smaller repairs:
  • If the damage is only slight, you may be able to miss-out stage 3.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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